Baer
Baer Jewels was established in 1988 as an atelier in Hong Kong, Peter and his wife Doris’ duplex showroom and workshop is a unique concept in the heart of Central. Peter Baer is an award-winning designer who apprenticed in his native Switzerland and studied gemmology in Germany, he held design and management positions with leading companies in both Europe and Hong Kong before going independent. Baer jewels are distinctively modern, combining geometric and sculptural lines which evoke a certain architectural quality. Baer use only the finest quality metals and gemstones, including jade, pearls and Opals. Each creation carries the hallmark ‘baerjewels’ with an embedded diamond as a testimony of authenticity and guarantee of superb craftsmanship. www.baerjewels.com

Blennerhassett
Susan Blennerhassett is a renowned national and international award winning jeweller, co-owner with husband John of Blennerhassett Fine Jewellers in Western Australia. Since her apprenticeship 28 years ago, a major part of her training involved working with Opals, their uniqueness, fiery colours and free-form shapes inspired a passion for working with Australia's National Gemstone. This enthusiasm remains with Susan today, client’s commissions to design have led to her most creative pieces featuring the naturally playful colours in Opals enhanced by diamonds and coloured stones. www.blennerhassett.com.au

Buccellati
Mario Buccellati opened his first shop in Milan in 1919. In the following years he made jewelry for the royal families of Italy, Spain and Egypt, as well as Pope Pius XI and Pope Pius XII, among others. In 1925 he opened in Rome followed by Florence in 1929 and New York in 1953. In 1965 the founder's three sons, all goldsmiths, reformed the company to preserve the Buccellati style. According to the company's creative director and daughter of Gianmaria, as a child she sometimes played with the rare Opal egg which years later was on show at the Smithsonian, now netted in diamonds. Under the leadership of Gianmaria Buccellati and his children Maria Christina,  Andrea and Gino, 70 Italian craftspeople create personalised jewels featuring texture-engraved gold  Their unique artistry can be enjoyed in exclusive boutiques in Milan, Sardinia, Paris, New York, and Beverly Hills, as well as franchises in Venice, Capri, Elba, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Osaka. The firm in the United States is known as Buccellati. But because of the other brothers Lorenzo and Federico's shops in Europe, Gianmaria's European boutiques are called Gianmaria Buccellati. www.buccellati.com

J.E. Caldwell
In 1839, James Emmott Caldwell, a New York City trained jeweler, began to supply wealthy Philadelphians with stylish European jewelry, silver, and objets d'art.  Business soon flourished and over several decades, the store moved to more fashionable premises in Chestnut Street also changing owners several times. In 1868, the firm was officially established as J.E. Caldwell and Co.and towards the end of the nineteenth century, the firm began to hand fabricate beautiful gem-set jewels which are heralded among the finest examples of American Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelery. Caldwell were 'the' jeweler to the establishment in the city of brotherly love, their clientele consisting mostly of married and conservative people. Around the turn of the century, finely chased surfaces, were combined with unusual gemstones such as Opals, complimented with typical Nouveau motifs: curvaceous women, vines, garlands, flowers, and insects. Throughout the 1920’s, the firm produced fine pieces of Art Deco jewelry, now well sought after by collectors. The company’s tradition of using fine Opals continued into the Deco period, and beyond, whereas Opal was no longer the gemstone of choice in the new era. J.E. Caldwell continues to offer high quality jewels according to the current styles. www.jecaldwell.com

Cartier
In 1847 Louis-Francois Cartier founded his business, in Paris, joined by his son Alfred. During the Art Deco era grandsons Louis, Pierre, and Jean-Jacques took over, opening salons in Paris, London and New York. They parlayed the company's distinctive oriental-influenced style, diamond set platinum jewels and technical excellence into a famous worldwide empire. In 1972, a private investment group bought Cartier Paris. A separate boutique product line named 'Les Must de Cartier' was developed at the time to appeal to the public at large. The merger of "Cartier" and "Les Must de Cartier" took place in 1981. In 1983 Eric Naussbaum began attending auctions worldwide to build the Cartier Collection, which now constitutes a priceless record of this amazing House's creativity. Several important pieces in the collection, dating from the 1930's to the 1960s', reveal an affinity with Opal had by the London firm ran by Jean-Jacques Cartier. In 1993 Cartier became a part of  Richemont's Vendôme Luxury Group. www.cartier.com

Wallace Chan
Born in China into a traditional Chinese cultural environment, Wallace completed rigorous training as an ivory sculptor and studied art at university. A self-taught person by nature, in the mid 1980’s he invented the so called "Wallace Cut," an image-carving and reflecting technique incorporating elements of cameo, intaglio and gem faceting. A rich practical knowledge of metallurgy and machinery lead him to combine different kinds of gems, like Opals, and various metals which resist a creative idea because they are not easily combinable, he “marries” them until they are melted or cast into a unity. Creative influences include traditional art realism, Buddhist art and Greco-Roman mythic motifs. Particularly renowned by collectors in Hong Kong, China, Japan, Singapore, Taiwan, and Germany where his works are available in selected venues. 1987 winner of the Hong Kong Jewellery Design Grand Award. Chan’s Motto: Nature conceives, I complete. www.wallace-chan.com

Chaumet
Originally founded in 1780 by Marie-Etienne Nitot, as Nitot & Sons, the firm became the official jeweler to Napoleon’s court. Among their achievements were the Consular sword, the tiara of Pius VIIand the grand gemstone parures, including Opal sets, ordered by the Empresses Jospehine and Marie-Louise. Joseph Chaumet, joined the firm by marriage in the mid 1870s, assuming corporate leadership in 1885, he later renamed the firm. Joseph Chaumet's creativity and naturalistic approach created romantic jewels catapulting him to the pinnacle of Belle Epoque design. Chaumet served as the jeweler to many of the royal houses of Europeand won numerous awards at international exhibitions, aigrettes and tiaras became the company's signature items. Through the 1960s and 1970s, Chaumet's animal and flower jewels were prominent. The firm expanded its market share introducing watch designs. Now owned by LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, Chaumet has numerous boutiques across the globe.  www.chaumet.com

Christian Dior
Founded in Paris in 1946 and now owned by LVMH. As the newest entrant to fine jewellery creation of the famed Parisian luxury brands Dior has been fond of the fashionable palette of colours found in Opal. Creative director Victoire de Castellane is enamoured of Opals and the value equation of size and colour Opals offer. Opals of all types are preferred for use in the portrayal of aquatic designs and bold cocktail rings. 
www.diorjoaillerie.com

A. Dragsted
Established 1854 in Copenhagen. Jewellers to the Royal Court of Denmark and Greece, and to the Imperial Court of Russia. Presented at numerous exhibitions over several generations.

www.a.dragsted.aok.dk

Fouquet
A family business founded by Alphonse Fouquet (1828-1911), spanned three generations, as his son Georges and later, grandson Jean worked tirelessly creating classic Art Nouveau designs. Georges' work rivaled that of Lalique; although Georges Fouquet is considered more versatile. Georges collaboration with artist Alfonse Mucha, in 1900, created spectacular plique-a-jour enamel designs. Their collaborative effort on an Opal inlaid serpent bracelet created for actress Sarah Bernhardt solidified their place in jewelry history. Georges worked alongside his son throughout the Art Deco era until the mid 1930s, when the company closed its doors.

Giuliano
Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895) moved with his family from Italy to Englandin the mid 19th century, where he began to make granulated gold jewelry in the ancient Greek and Roman style. This style was popular at the time and his contemporaries the Castellani family were also based in London. Giuliano’s workshop was in his name after 1860 and in 1874 he opened a retail shop with his son under the name Carlo and Arthur Giuliano. By the 1870s, archaeological-style jewelry had lost much of its appeal, and the Renaissance style was capturing attention. Rather than replicate Renaissance jewelry, Giuliano sensitively interpreted it to suit late 19th century taste and the company blossomed. Precise enameling and careful attention to detail mark truly original designs. Giuliano’s superb yet understated pieces were enriched with a modest combination of gems including cabochon Opals. Patrons included Queen Victoriaand the Prince of Wales. Collaborations with Castellani and artist Edward Burne-Jones, a leader of the Aesthetic movement, resulted in a successful range of designs. Collectors and connoisseurs alike seek out Giuliano jewelry, the pieces are still fresh and feel heavy compared with other Victorian pieces, because Giuliano worked only in solid gold.

Giulians
Established in 1966 by Ivan Vortuni, the House of Giulians' iconic George St showroom in Sydneyis world renowned for impeccable service and one of the finest collections of Australian precious gemstones. Over the years Giulians has served numerous famous clients including entertainment superstar Michael Jackson. Giulians is a family run company specialising in the  highest quality Australian opals, South Sea Pearls and Pink Diamonds. All jewellery is designed and handcrafted exclusively by their own in house designers and jewelers, overseen by award winning jeweler Gary Coffey. www.giulians.com.au

Guild of Handicraft
Charles Ashbee established the Guild of Handicraft in 1888 in order to develop techniques and aesthetics in jewellery, as well as in furniture and metalwork. Ashbee who was inspired by John Ruskin’s writings and William Morris’s work, started his career as an architect and was one of the first designers in the Arts and Crafts Movement to experiment with jewellery. C.R.Ashbee collaborated with other British jewellers, including John Paul Cooper to produce a range of items including belt or waist buckles, clasps, hatpins, pendants and brooches. Fine craftsmanship and ideologies of the medieval period inspired their work, including the use of naturally hewn stones such as split faces of Boulder Opal. It was essentially a reaction to the shoddy machine-made goods that had been created by industrialization in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Despite being the main inspiration for the Wiener Werkstatte and the fact that their designs were much copied by Liberty & Co., the Guild went into voluntary liquidation in 1907.

Oscar Heyman
Founded in 1912, this New York based manufacturer of the very finest precious gemstone jewelry is one of only a handful of family-owned workshops still dedicated to European-style craftsmanship and "by hand" fabrication. The family of six brothers and three sisters emigrated from Latvia in the early 1900's. Having apprenticed at a Faberge workshop in Russia, two of the brothers had extensive experience with platinum, a new metal at that time. Another brother was skilled at tool making. Together, they were able to establish a self-contained company where quality could be monitored at all stages. In time, the firm manufactured and supplied jewelry for the most prestigious American jewelry houses of the 1930s. Flower brooches became the company's signature item. Their magnificent creations are often purposely unstamped as a discretion to their trade customers and may require specialist authentication. The tradition continues as the family owned and operated company makes its own tools, alloys its own platinum and gold, selecting the finest gems, amongst them the most magnificent Black Opals, from which they design and create jewels for the most discerning clientele. Oscar Heyman is a preferred supplier and a key source for the finest retail jewelers worldwide.

www.oscarheyman.com

Iskenderian
John or Isky as he is known to his many friends within the Australian trade established himself in 1963 and comes from an Armenian family of jewellers who traded in Jerusalem. Winner of numerous awards, the De Beers Award in 1985, he counts President Bill Clinton as a client. To mark the birth of little Prince Christian of Denmark born in October, and whose birthstone is Opal, the Jewellers Association on behalf of the Australian people presented a Boulder Opal pendant encased in gold to HRH Crown Princess Mary and a set of custom made Opal and gold cuff links to HRH Crown Prince Frederik on the 6 August 2006 at Fredensborg Palace. These jewels were both superbly crafted by Mr. John Iskenderian of Sydney.

Georg Jensen
In 1904 Danish sculptor Georg Jensen founded his silversmith business in Copenhagen.His unique designs embrace elegant lines, organic motifs and simplicity of form that made him a commercial success. Not tied to one artistic arena, Georg Jensen created masterful works in jewelry, cutlery and hollowware. His brightly polished creations, both pure and timeless, encompassed Art Nouveau and Avant-Garde styles. Georg Arthur Jensen died in 1935, his legacy is that of one of the most influential silversmiths of the 20th century, his extraordinary vision lives on; The privately held company continues to cultivate new design talent and produces fine jewelry, watches, gift items and cutlery in gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and precious gems. Georg Jensen is a global luxury brand with 1000 employees, present in more than 12 countries, through an international retail network of more than 100 stores. www.georgjensen.com

Liberty & Co.
Established by Arthur Lasenby Liberty in 1875, the luxury department store on London’s Regent Streetbegan selling ornaments, fabric and objets d'art from Japan and the East. The iconic Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Arthur L. Liberty intended to change the look of fashion and this extended to jewellery, which had first been imported from Germany. Immediate success justified the development of a range of fabrics and jewellery for the company’s aspiring middle class clientele. Liberty employed numerous, mainly unknown English artist designers, and by 1901, had invested significantly in machine mass production. Archibald Knox was the major force behind Liberty & Co.’s jewellery design. Due to Knox, the Celtic Revival of Liberty & Co., was for a short time to exemplify English Art Nouveau to such an extent that in Italy, the style became known as the Stile Liberty. Liberty & Co. was prolific in the production of Opal encrusted jewellery in both silver and gold, prominently set in pendants and necklaces. Numerous silverware objet d’art including cultlery sets, vases and cigar boxes were lavished with Opals as well as agates, turquoise, pearls and enamel. The Liberty department store, brand-name and design archives belong to MWB Group Holdings plc, founded by Richard Balfour-Lynn and listed on the London Stock Exchange. www.liberty.co.uk

Marchak
Joseph Marchak established his firm in 1878. Known as the 'Cartier of Kiev', Marchak was a household name in Russia, he and his contemporary Faberge were the appointed jewellers to the Romanov Tsars. His son Alexander Marchak immigrated to Paris from Russia at the start of the Russian Revolution, rising to prominence during the Art Deco period, having exhibited at the 1925 Paris Exhibition of Decorative Arts. Favourite themes were birds and floral sprays, all highly romanticized and decorated in the most colourful precious and semi-precious gemstones including Opals. www.marchak.fr

Mauboussin
It was Paris1827, the year when the House of Mauboussin opened. The firm specialized in highly stylized architectural jewels set with precious gems of vibrant hue, often Opals, accented by sparkling white diamonds. They exhibited at the 1925 International Exhibition des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, and won the grand prize. Georges Mauboussin believed that jewelry should reflect the wearer's personality with a jeweled accent. Its Reflection series struck a chord with socialites and celebrities, such as Marlene Dietrich, who flocked to Mauboussin. The company opened offices in Buenos Aires and London prior to New York, in 1929. The ill-timed opening of their New York branch coincided with the stock market crash the same year. A weakened Mauboussin merged with Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc.

Piaget

Founded by Georges Edouard Piaget in 1874, who produced highly precise mechanical clock movements in his workshop on the family farm in the Jura mountains of Switzerland. Grandsons Gerald and Valentin registered the brand and expanded it geographically. The small village of Cote-aux-Fees became the centre of new developments in the field of ultra-thin mechanical movements, with a new workshop built in 1945. Defining moments include the sensational 1964 launch of ‘Gemstone faced’ watches, the ‘Cuff’ watch and in 1976 developed the worlds smallest quartz movement. Under the guidance of Yves Piaget since 1980, Piaget has a dozen boutiques around the world and numerous prestige outlets purvey the firm's jewelry and watches. Piaget use only the finest quality rough crystal Opal to make exclusive one-piece Opal faced watches.www.piaget.com

Rachi
Miwako and Sumihiro Rachi are Tokyo based jewelry artisans. Engaged in the jewellery industry since 1974, set up studio “Melpool” in 1989 and show room in 1997. They are part of an elite group of celebrated Japanese designers. Rachi draw their inspiration from the Baroque & Rococo periods and the romanticism of Florence, Rome and Vienna. Particularly fond of blue-green Boulder Opals, these often form the centrepiece of Rachi's compositions.

Scavia
Established in 1923 as a goldsmith’s workshop in Milan by Domenico and Sara Scavia. Today, Fulvio Maria Scavia is the driving force behind this emerging Italian luxury group, encompassing the fine jewelry brand and a very personal concept of elegance expressed through a collection of precious accessories. Scavia’s unmistakeable style is characterized by the use of bold gemstones and colourful compositions. The creations are skillfully handcrafted from designs which are aesthetically researched and timeless. Scavia operate branded stores in Milan, Bangkok, Tokyo and Moscow. www.scavia.it

Nicholas Varney
Born into a New York society family, his father was famed interior designer Carleton Varney and his mother textile designer Suzanne Varney, who traveled extensively together with Nicholas from an early age. Having grown up surrounded by inspired design and educated in some of New York’s finest schools he came to associate jewelry with “love, travel, excitement and happiness”. Coveted in the pages of Vogue, W, New York Times and the Robb Report, Nicholas Varney’s jewelry attracts the attention of private clients, exclusive jewelers and galleries such as Bergdorf Goodman. Known for his artistic use of gems, Opal is an all-time favourite in his pursuit of the world's rarest and most beautiful stones. Often compared to miniature sculptures of museum quality, Varney’s works of art are worthy of being displayed as objects de virtu, better still they are very wearable. Varney says he strives to combine the “bravado of bold American designers such as David Webb and Tony Duquette with fine European craftsmanship.”  www.nicholasvarneyjewels.com

Vever
The family firm Vever was founded in Paris in 1821. When grandson Henri Vever (1854-1943) took control of the company he was already a distinguished jeweler, writer, and art collector. Vever's artistic approach and his use of enamel was often likened to that of Rene Lalique, and he too was enamoured of Opals. Henri Vever is particularly noted for expertly inlay setting Opals into his lavish creations. The House of Vever accomplished their greatest work during the Art Nouveau period with the highlight being the 1900 Paris Exposition. Maison Vever continued to make fabulous jewelry and objects d'art through the Art Deco era.

Wartski
Founded in North Wales in 1865 by Morris Wartski. In 1907 two shops were established in the fashionable seaside resort of Llandudno. Business thrived for Wartski under the patronage of King Edward VII and a colourful clientele including Bing Crosby, Jackie O and the Marquis of Anglesey aka. the 'dancing Marquis' who had a penchant for emerald-set ping-pong shirts. Wartski opened premises on Regent Street and has moved shop to Grafton Street in London. Chairman Nicholas Snowman, maternal great-grandson of the founder, continues to support the firm's welcoming and scholarly traditions. Wartski is a family owned firm of antique dealers, specialising in fine jewellery, Silver and Russian works of art, including Faberge. www.wartski.com

Wiener Werkstätte
Members of the artists’ association ‘Secession’ and Vienna’s Kunstgewerbeschule, (College of Arts and Crafts), founded the Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna Workshop) in 1903. The workshop brought together architects, artists and designers whose first commitment was to design art which would be accessible to everyone. Clientele were mostly artists and the open-minded, progressive and financially well-to-do upper middle class, not the masses. As well as jewellery, leather goods, enamel, postcards, ceramics & clothing the Wiener Werkstätte even had a hat department – in line with the spirit of art as a holistic concept. Protagonist Josef Hoffmann and his main collaborator Koloman Moser created a geometric style whose functional simplicity anticipates later modernism and has influenced the work of many of today's leading designers and architects. Leading names of the period, such as Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka, Egon Schiele, Dagobert Peche, Otto Prutscher, Ernst Lichtblau and Josef Frank created works for the brand. Many of the jewels and metal objects produced were gem-set, often liberally with Opals, and cabouchon coloured stones were preferred. The creations were stamped with three different hallmarks, the trademark of the Wiener Werkstätte, the monogram of the designer and that of the craftsman. The Wiener Werkstätte had 100 employees in 1905, of whom 37 were masters of their trade. Though for a time the products enjoyed tremendous commercial success, which led to the establishment of sales outlets in Karlsbad, Marienbad, Zurich, New York and Berlin, the Wiener Werkstätte went into liquidation in 1932.

Harry Winston
Harry Winston first opened shop on New York City's 5th Avenue in 1932. Renowned for having possessed, cut or re-cut many of the world's most spectacular diamonds, Winston generously donated important gemstones and jewels to the Smithsonian museum; Amongst them the Oppenheimer, the Hope, the Portuguese diamond and the Peacock Black Opal brooch. “If I could, I would attach the diamonds directly onto a woman’s skin.” Winston celebrated magnificent stones and was passionate about adorning women with them. Rather than the precious metal shaping his designs, Harry Winston was consumed with the possibility of individual stones. His was a legendary approach with vastly modern results. Harry Winston died in 1978. The business continues to operate in select cities across the World.

Wolfers Frères
Philippe Wolfers (1858-1929) trained in the Brusselsworkshop of his father, master goldsmith Louis Wolfers. The famous Belgian jeweller, sculptor and glassware designer played an important role in the development of Art Nouveau locally and abroad. Early influences were the Rococo Revival and Japanese art and naturalism. By the 1880's, Philippe was the artistic director and designer of the family workshop: Wolfers Frères. He began to create jewellery that was of a sinuous and sensual nature; often curved and decorated with asymmetrically distributed floral motifs. Wolfers’ outstanding creations were well received at the Exposition Internationale Antwerp in 1894 and at the Exposition Internationale Brussels in 1897. Wolfers' success was immediate and resulted in the opening of branches in Antwerp, Liège, Ghent, Düsseldorf, London and Paris. Encouraged by this success Philippe committed Wolfers Frères to the Art Nouveau style. Wolfers exhibited at the Munich Secession 1898-1899 and in 1900 showed an important collection of his jewellery at the Paris Salon. In 1902 he exhibited at the Esposizione Internazionale d'Arte Decorativa in Turin. Inspired by the Symbolism Movement’s dream-like themes, he plied chased gold or silver with ivory, pearls, rubies, diamonds, Opal or enamel to create luxuriant jewels. Pendants, brooches, belt buckles and hair ornaments decorated with floral, animal and natural designs, sensual female forms, with fluid symbolic ornaments. The House of Wolfers Frères closed their doors in 1975.

Yoshiko Yamamoto
Born in Kobe Japan Yamamoto moved to USA in 1968 to attend the School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.  She remained in Boston, initially working with Miye Matsukata at Janiye atelier and gallery until his death in 1981. Opals, especially Boulder Opals emerged as her stone of choice during the 1980’s and they remain a definite favourite. Yamamoto prefers Boulder Opal because of its natural, organic appearance; she views the brownish matrix as a “part of the earth…alive with passionate colour.” Yamamoto’s creations are characterised by a preference for high Karat gold incorporating 18K, 22K, and 24K with matt and etched finishes applied, providing a modern twist on the ancient art of textured gold. Throughout her 35 year career the shape of the stone has informed the design and geometry has been a recurring theme of Yoshiko Yamamoto’s ever evolving and experimental compositions.

Sources & Image Credits:

AMAZING CARTIER: JEWELLERY DESIGN SINCE 1937, Nadine Coleno, 2009.

www.departures.com/articles/bewitched-bothered-and-buccellatid

Heritage Auction House Jewelers article

Christie's Jewelry Collecting Guide: Master Jewelers

professionaljeweler.com/archives/articles/2001/jan01/0101v.html (Giuliano)

Sondra Schneider – writes of Nicholas Varney in Aspen Peak Magazine

Nicholas Varney quoted from Robb Report: Rising Stars

PIAGET WATCHES & WONDERS SINCE 1874, Franco Cologni, Giampiero Negretti & Franco Nencini, 1994.

THE WOLFERS DYNASTY: FROM ART NOUVEAU TO ART DECO, Werner Adriaenssens & Raf Steela,

QUIET RIPPLES: THE CREATIVE JOURNEY OF YOSHIKO YAMAMOTO, Yvonne Markowitz, 2009.

YARD: THE LIFE & MAGNIFICENT JEWELRY OF RAYMOND C. YARD, Natasha Kuzmanovic, 2007.